Rising 7,402 feet above sea level,
the majestic Blue Mountains are considered the most scenic
in the Caribbean. Stretching between Port Antonio and
Kingston, they’re easily accessible. You’ll
discover tiny, quaint settlements, excellent hiking trails,
breathtaking panoramas, and Blue Mountain coffee for
the connoisseur.
From a distance, the Blue Mountains
are indeed blue. A misty blue from the almost perpetual
cover of clouds. But as you get closer, climbing the
twisty, narrow roads, dodging the occasional goat, mule
and cow, the mist thins and the colours become a green
that’s unshakeable from memory. As you climb higher
and higher, the air gets cooler and crisper. At these
higher elevations, it’s not unusual to drive right
through clouds. Reach out of the window; you can feel
their moisture. Weaving around the road, you’ll
see bamboo plants sharing the rainforest like environment
with tropical vines, ferns, banana plants and coconut
trees. At about 3,000 feet elevation, you’ll enter
the world famous Blue Mountain region. Several small
plantations dot the roadside and offer a good opportunity
to stop, stretch your legs, and enjoy a cup of the world’s
best coffee along with the awesome scenery. The temperature
drops significantly with elevation (60 degrees at the
higher levels) and the air gets sweet. There are five
major peaks on what is called the Grand Ridge: John Crow
(5,750 feet), St. John’s Peak (6,332 feet), Mossman’s
Peak (6,703), High Peak (6,812 feet) and the highest
of all, Blue Mountain Peak (7,402 feet). At the highest
point of your excursion, you’ll find the military
post of Newcastle. The road passes right through the
Jamaica Defence Force training base here. Beyond the
gatehouse, there is a parking area where you can enjoy
the awe-inspiring view of what’s ahead, if you’re
continuing down the other side.There are two routes through
the mountains, Route A3 from Annotto Bay to Kingston
is the principal road. The other, more scenic route,
as described above, is B1. It travels from Buff Bay to
Kingston via Newcastle. However, paved roads won’t
get you to any of the peaks. If you have a desire to
get to the top, put on your boots and start walking.
Good hiking trails exist and guided trips can be arranged.
There are about 250 species of birds living in the mountains.
They are also home to the six inch swallowtail butterfly,
largest butterfly in the Western Hemisphere. Overnight
trips take hikers through coffee plantations, alongside
waterfalls and on up to Blue Mountain Peak, the top of
Jamaica. From that altitude, on a clear day, it’s
said, you can see Cuba. Blue Mountain Coffee The question
now must be answered in cold, empirical terms. Is it
truly the world’s best coffee? Any answer is subjective
but there are many who have stood tall and declared their
allegiance. Among the champions was author Ian Fleming.
Fleming, who lived part time in Jamaica, would not allow
his literary hero (and man of taste), James Bond, to
drink any other. As Bond sits down for breakfast in a
page of "Live and Let Die," Fleming declares
outright: "Blue Mountain coffee, the most delicious
in the world…" The sentiment is shared far
and wide but it may come as a surprise to the uninitiated
that in the U.S., coffee aficionados pay more than $30
(and as much as $50) a pound for the pleasure. Why so
much? Because supply is low and demand is high. Blue
Mountain tastes like no other. Its taste is tied to geographical
and climatological phenomena found only in a tiny part
of Jamaica.
Jamaican coffee comes from the arabica
bean, a bean which is far more fragile and flavourful
than the robusta bean. It also contains less caffeine
than Robusta coffee.
The harvest of Blue Mountain coffee
is laborious and occurs only when the beans, or cherries
as they are properly called, are ripe. They are literally
hand-picked. One at a time. Coffee is not native to Jamaica.
Or the Caribbean for that matter. Its origins lie in
Yemen and it was carried across the globe by Europeans.
Folklore has it that Louis XV of France sent three plants
to Martinique in 1723. Two plants died en route and the
lone surviving plant ended up in Jamaica. From that,
the coffee industry now owes its heritage.
In 1953 the government decreed that
only coffee grown in a specific region of the mountain
range, and processed by four estates (Mavis Bank, Silver
Hill, Moy Hall and the Government Station at Wallenford)
could be certified as 100 percent Blue Mountain coffee.
Any other Jamaican coffee would be graded as, High Mountain
or Low-Land coffee.
Jamaican coffee held a solid niche in
the gourmet coffee market. But, in 1988 Jamaica was again
pounded by a violent storm. Hurricane Gilbert , packing
150-mph winds, damaged 70 percent of the fields and factories,
practically shutting down production for two years. Only
recently has production been restored to former levels.
Identifying marks on all Blue Mountain coffee packages,
assuring the premier quality, are part of the quality-control
system established by the Coffee Industry Board. Package
labels indicate if it is a blend or 100 percent.
Because of its cost, you will not find
Blue Mountain coffee served in all island hotels and
restaurants. However, you can buy brand-name coffee such
as Country Traders in local shops for considerably less
than in the U.S. Until then, the original question remains.
Is it the world’s best coffee? Savour a cup of
your own. Surely you’ll agree with 007.
Reprinted From " Destination
Jamaica" Magazine
Click here to purchase this wonderful Jamaica
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